Last Days of Lake Michigan

Increasingly, I have to stop and pay attention, and experience the beauty and wonder of this trip.  It is too easy for another sunset to slip by, another day of perfect weather, another incredible waterscape of smooth waters, blended shades of blue waters and skies, a shoreline of sand dunes and woods – then another charming town full of character and characters.   Another set of great boat guests – who help to keep us appreciative because they tend to see all of these things with fresh eyes. 

So, in a nutshell, the previous paragraph was our past two weeks, if not our past two+ months.

For more detail...

8/13.   Deb and Mike Hughes joined us in Pentwater.  We had a great dinner on board, a trip into town to experience the Antlers bar and a few little stores, and the usual cards and Bananagrams. 

8/14.   A long, but perfect trip down the shore to Grand Haven.  I say perfect, although the other three seemed to take exception to the 43 degree temperatures at sunrise – just before we left.  I love a cool fall morning in August and the sun warmed the day up nicely over the course of the trip.

We arrived in Grand Haven – a large town by the standards of our recent travels.  Lots of galleries, museums, restaurants, parks.   The beach which we reached by bike, was named by Travel and Leisure as one of the Top Secret Beautiful Beaches of the World – one of the few in the U.S.  But wait, there’s more.  Every night in the summer, there is a large fountain/lights/music show directly across the river from our boat bow.  I made the mistake of telling the others this was going down, because it would have been great fun to have just been sitting out there chatting and having the theme from 2001 start up over giant speakers.  This is the second largest musical/lights/fountain in the U.S. after the Bellagio in Las Vegas.

8/15.   I did a bike ride to a grocery store – loaded up my backpack and a couple of bags for the handle bars.  Found a place to get my hair cut inside the super supermarket – so took advantage of that rare opportunity. 

I continued my so-so bocce ball season with a tournament loss to Mike.  I’m sure he would agree the competition was fierce – all the games close – and we were both playing unusually well.  Great space for unusual ball locations.  We had a great dinner in town at the Kimball House (thanks, guys) and chatted with lots of passerbys walking along the park next to our boat – an active area. 

And, Debi and Debee (I think they both chose these spellings in high school)....celebrated their 40 year anniversary, as best friends - indeed, a reason to celebrate!

8/16.   Moving on down the road to Holland – historical site of some considerable teenage hijinx on part.  We are staying at a private yacht club – one of the few that allows transient guests.  It’s a very nice facility – indoor/outdoor swimming pool, good restaurant, etc.  And we really lucked out - there was a dock party tonight – several tables of food, a keg of beer, wine, etc.  But don’t be late for the 6:00 party – almost all of that was consumed by 7:00.  Had some very nice chats with the club members.  As you can see in the picture, some people will do anything to get into Boat's Notes

Summer in Michigan (and Canada) is so short that every day and night in every town offers something special.  Sometimes we luck out by arriving on the right night, like tonight, but just as often we hear about what we just missed the night before.  Can’t do it all – can we?

After three great nights of games, laughs, memories, family stories (they actually won that contest), Mike and Deb moved on to complete their Michigan vacation with daughter Chelsea and in-laws up north, not far from our stay in Leland a couple of weeks ago.

8/17.   We biked down to the beach – a couple of miles.  We climbed the 239 steps to the top of Mt. Pisgah, which gave us views of both Lake Macatawa (where the marina and boat were) and Lake Michigan.  A walk on the beach, spotting of an otter on the breakwater, an open house at a lakefront condo, and a stop at an old-fashioned ice cream store took us to the evening.   At that point, our friends Mike and Linda Cheney arrived – just in time for dinner on the boat and a night of game playing (I knew I could count on Linda for game energy).

8/18.   Holland was the first of our Michigan stops that did not have its major marina action downtown – instead we were quite aways across the lake from it.  But we hopped in the Cheney car to tour downtown and have a great breakfast at the Biscuit.   The afternoon brought us to the beach for walking, people-watching, reading, and napping.  We got back to the boat in time to meet Terry and Lee Cunningham.  Lee, Linda, and I were all great friends in college – more enduring relationships.  Mike and Linda left after their short visit – the rest of us had another boat dinner and more games. 

8/19.   Time to continue south – this time to the lovely, artsy community of Saugatuck.  The downtown marina was on the river after a nice scenic winding trip in from the lake.  We toured the town’s galleries and stores – played a lot of bocce ball (I won the series from Lee, who had to use his belt to measure a close call), and eventually had a great dinner in town.

8/20.   On to South Haven – where Lee and Terry have a vacation condo.  It’s also a very nice town in its own right – and a marina to match.  We got things sort of settled and then abandoned Sea Fever to spend the night at their condo.   A swim in their pool with a beautiful view from a bluff over Lake Michigan was followed by a great salmon dinner.  We finished just in time to head into town for a unique concert at a unique venue.   Lee and Terry have become members at this performance venue – a renovated large space in an old building.  The lights, sound, stage and talent level (a singer-songwriter followed by a rather orchestral folk-rock band) were all quite high, but the attendance was quite low (the four of us constituting about 20% of the audience).  Not sure why – there’s not that much else to do in South Haven.  We enjoyed it before heading back to their condo for some really bad (on my part) cards and our first night sleeping off the boat in six weeks.  Big spaces can be comfortable (even though we do have a queen-size bed on SF).

Being with them reminded us that we never wrote about attending their oldest daughter's wedding in May - on a high hill at a winery, overlooking the Hudson River valley - was just south of where we started this journey from the Hudson.  It was a very beautiful and unique setting - just like Megan!

8/21.   A big day for us – as we stepped away from the boat and got on planes.  Lee drove us to Grand Rapids so that I could fly to Denver for some trial consultation and Debi flew home for about 36 hours to tend to EMSTAR and Sugar Mag business, as well as have a short visit with Josie, Emily and Charlie. 

8/23.   Marty picked us up at the airport and drove us to Williamston where we met Charlene for dinner in town.  While we love our boat life – these diversions are really a nice change of pace. 

8/24.   A walk into town to see the sights - including a park with multiple tornado ravaged trees turned into beautiful art by competing chain-saw artists.... followed by a game of golf on the course they live on (Marty and I) and some swimming in their lovely backyard pool – a great relief on one of our warmer days of the summer.  But these good things had to be followed by more good things – we headed back to the boat.

Marty drove us the couple of hours from their home back to South Haven – then spent the night with us.  Sunset and bocce on the beach was followed by a trip to the Boat Bar – a boat in the river converted into a bar/restaurant.  Lots of energy there and very busy - Debi wormed us into a shared table with three guys, with whom we had enjoyable conversation. Went back to SF and were all so tired that we could only muster one game of cards.

8/25.   Marty bid adieu and we headed south to St. Joseph.  We had our first boat failure in awhile – the chart plotter gave out on us.  This is basically our installed GPS with a big screen up at the helm, with all of our navigational software.  We improvised with the help of old fashioned paper charts and a first generation hand held navigational GPS.  It was a straight shot along the coast, so nothing complicated was needed - but it did confirm the wisdom in Debi's rule that she will not leave the dock without the proper paper charts on board. 

In St. Joseph, we enjoyed the company of several other “Loopers” for happy hour (several of whom we had met in South Haven).  Lots of discussion about routes, marinas, weather, navigation.  Nice to know other people have the same challenges we do and that we seem to be holding our own in making our way through this journey. 

8/26.   The first day in two weeks we haven’t had someone on board with us for at least part of the day.  And the first day in a month that this has been true AND we haven’t been moving the boat.  Nice to sit still and have time to get caught up on stuff (like this blog).  AND, it’s Debi’s birthday – unfortunately, she spent most of the day working on an EMSTAR proposal, which was not on her schedule...after she freed herself from this entrapment, we rode bikes into town – did the usual exploration through the nice residential areas – found a bar with 72 beers on tap (and Debi ordered a bottle of Corona) – and had a very nice dinner on a patio overlooking L. Michigan as the sun began to set. 

8/27.   New Buffalo, settled by a captain from Buffalo, NY.  Our last L. Michigan port other than Chicago.  Had some waves coming down, but nothing to worry about.  When it looked like we might have trouble connecting to the marina's power, we considered leaving for Chicago – it was nice enough to do that if we had to.  Instead, we insisted on our solution instead of the marina's, so we stayed and ended up docked next to Summer Recess (yes, two retired teachers) – fellow Loopers we have seen in several ports – they are on our schedule, more or less.  Sounds like more “docktails” with them tonight.

Finally turning on the A/C.   It’s been a cool summer up until now – I’ve loved it.  But now that the days are getting shorter and the season is coming to a close, we’re getting at least one last furnace blast.

On to Chicago!!
Jim and Debi


P.S.  Does anyone know where
         and why this picture was
         taken?

Old and New Memories

First Law of Travel Blogging – When not much is going on, there’s plenty of time to write about it.  Unfortunately, the converse is also true – and the past 11 days have been very active.  Four sets of friends, 4 towns, a visit to the site of family history and childhood memories, not to mention the encounter with our new Manistee friends (see previous entry). 

Second Law of Blogging – it takes as long to import, arrange and format the content (narration and pictures) onto the blog page as it does to write this stuff.  Thanks to Debi for taking on this latter and  sometimes frustrating task.  Below is our updated map, showing our progress (purple line) down Lake Michigan.  Again, thanks to Zuri for her graphic expertise!

8/2

For years, Steve Erickson and I have fantasized about being in northern Michigan together.  He has grown to love the area as a result of many visits with his wife, Mary, who grew up in our current port, Leland.  I have loved the area since many visits as a child with my family – vacationing from Chicago.  We kept threatening to meet up with them one summer during one of their annual visits – but never pulled the trigger. Another fantasy was getting Steve and Mary aboard Sea Fever for the first time.  And today, both fantasies were fulfilled, as the Ericksons arrived after flying into Traverse City and driving up.  

Mary had already given us the heads-up on several of her old haunts, including the house she grew up in.  This afternoon, we got a tour of some additional sights, relatives, and stories.  Great fun.

Then we combined forces with our previous coincidental guests, John and Midge Sweet (sister Chrise had gone home that afternoon) for a great dinner.  



The Ericksons and Sweets had previously met on a sailing trip for Debi’s 50^th birthday in Maine – so their relationship is nautically tinged.  Dinner for most of us, most nights – is whitefish, the local favorite. We left the restaurant in time to find a local beach for a perfect sunset. 

8/3

It’s great to have access to a car (the Ericksons’ rental), especially for beverages.  Bringing produce home in our bags on a bike is one thing – 4 gallons of water and a case of beer is another.  So we did some serious provisioning at a real supermarket in Traverse City on the way to picking up Emily at the airport.  A tasting at a winery on the way back broke up the trip and gave Emily an introduction to one of many local treasures. 

We arrived home to one of Debi’s delicious dinners,  and from there we fell right into the cards and Bananagrams thing. 

8/4   My family has been coming to Glen Lake and Sleeping Bear Dunes for about one hundred years – since my grandparents honeymooned here.  Therefore, this was one of the days I’ve really looked forward to on this whole trip.  The dunes are a treasure for a stranger, but for me it was beyond that.  First, I have many childhood memories of climbing these dunes – including the 3-4 hour strenuous hike from the first one up and down and up and down to the last one – a 460 foot steep bluff falling down to Lake Michigan - and then, back.  But beyond this, I had not been here since my grandparents’ ashes were scattered at that last dune.  My grandmother, at age 79, carried her husband’s ashes all the way over to the last dune.  21 years later, her 4 children carried her ashes close to the same point.   Sacred ground and a special day, indeed.

8/5
We were up early to take a beautiful sunrise cruise (a little chilly in the morning) along the shore, passing the Sleeping Bear Dunes, and moved on to Frankfort, near Crystal Lake, another part of my childhood.  This was Steve, Mary and Emily's first SF cruise - Emily has been to SF a few times, but somehow never when we moved.  We took our pasta dinner, to a picnic table in the park next to our boat.

Another special day.  My dad had scattered my mom’s ashes at a lookout high up on a hill where you can view the dunes and L. Michigan in the distance.  A beautiful vista.  It was a little difficult to find this place, making it all the more meaningful when we got there.  I wrote a couple of messages on the guard rail at the edge of the overlook.  Again, this was my first visit to this sacred place.  We found a nearby bar and sent her a toast. 

8/7

Unfortunately, Steve definitively claimed the Bocce Ball King crown, at least for now.  It was the only reason for being glad he and Mary, along with Emily left today – but the reasons we missed them were much greater.   They were perfect guests and were here for a very important part of the trip. 

We didn’t really have time to be too lonely.  20
minutes after Emily and the Ericksons (could be a band name) left for the airport, Marty and Charlene Kushler arrived after a drive up from Lansing.  This was their second Sea Fever trip, having survived the heat wave in D.C. last year.  I took out my bocce frustrations by beating Marty soundly, despite the one game in which he shut me out.  As I said to him, when you see outliers in a data stream like that, you throw them out as misleading and unreliable.  But he insisted it be included in Boat’s Notes. 

We had a great time catching up with Marty and Charlene, eating some fresh trout that Debi prepared.  We followed that with a walk to town for ice cream and a beautiful sunset on the beach, where benches were strategically scattered, all facing the sunset. 

8/8

Again, a very very smooth lake ride from Frankfort to Manistee.  Dunes and cliffs lined the shores.   We arrived in time to see a gigantic tanker come down the river, right in front of our slip.  It took up almost the whole river – shore to shore – quite a sight in that small space.  That was followed by exploration of the town, more bocce, and a lovely dinner (thanks, Kushlers) on the balcony of a restaurant overlooking the river.  Unfortunately, they had to depart shortly after that to return to Lansing.  A quick, but fun visit. 

On a normal night, such a nice dinner would have been the night’s highlight.  But after that, we wandered down to a riverside concert by a very good band from Lansing .  And after that, we ended up at Jim and Jerry’s house (see previous Boat’s Notes) for that adventure. 

8/9

Speaking of quick visits, Marci Culley and her mom, Kate drove up from Kate’s house near Flint, arriving around 4.  Shortly after that, Jerry and Jim (see previous entry) came to visit us on the boat (loaded with gifts of homemade wine, flowers, veggies, and potted herbs).  A cocktail or two was followed by a repeat visit to their home for rooftop sunset and an opportunity for Marci and Kate to get the experience.  Marci said she would still be there if we hadn’t dragged her home.   And after eating a delicious quiche they brought with them for breakfast the next morning, they were off for a trip to meet other relatives farther north.

8/10

As soon as they departed, and after a trip to the local farmer’s market, we also left - heading for Ludington.  We had our third consecutive near perfect water conditions for travel.  We’re getting spoiled by good water and lovely historic towns with just enough tourist/resort aspects at every stop.  We arrived in Ludington for its annual Arts and Crafts fair – so have spent some of the past two days exploring that.   Also enjoyed the many sculptures in their waterfront park and some good beer tastings at a bar featuring all beers from the Arbor Brewing Co. Today and tomorrow and Saturday are our only non-guest days for quite a span – three weeks or so. Am I the only one who can't resist a marquee like this?

8/12

Once again, perfect water, almost glassy – heading south a mere 12 miles to Pentwater.  We are really loving these northern Michigan towns.  Mackinac Island, Charlevoix, Leland, Frankfort, Manistee, Leland, and now Pentwater – all real winners.  I’m not sure how many of them I’d want to live in – or for how long – but they are perfect ports.  

I think that’s more than enough news for now – hope all is good for all of you. Jim, Debi and Emily

Manistee, Mansion Mania

This is NOT a Boat’s Notes.  It’s a true story.  Which is not to say that Boat’s Notes is not a true story, but those of you that are primarily interested in the itinerary of our travels, an annotated captain’s log, need not read this.  This is a step into a side room of our trip down the hall.  We will resume our regularly scheduled broadcast within a few days.   

We’re walking down the streets of Manistee.  Debi sees a beautiful rooftop garden on the top of a Victorian commercial building.  She sees a guy on top of the building. 

She: “Hi!  Nice garden!”

He:   “Thanks.  Want to come up? “

Debi loves to go into the homes (mostly boats) of strangers, or invite them to ours, so she was pretty darn happy.  And I had some optimism about this one. 

But I was not remotely prepared for the journey to Jerry’s second story and rooftop palace.  The building was originally a Pabst bar, meaning one of many bars that Pabst owned and leased to tavern owners under the condition that Pabst was the only beer sold.  That worked until Prohibition – and in 1988 Jerry moved in.  He and his partner, Jim, bought the building nine years ago and began transforming the space into their personal paradise.

This VICTORIAN building has been turned into a Dali painting.  Christmas lights, glittering streamers for door screens, a 2,300 square foot rooftop garden, hundreds of pieces of Pabst memorabilia, and a bar stocked with a bottle of scotch, a bottle of bloody Mary mix, and a can of whipped cream.  I’ve paid 20 bucks to enter museums with less going for it than Jerry and Jim’s (Jim was away, picking blueberries for their weekly Farmer's Market) masterpiece of design, collection, and brilliance.  See https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Historic-Pabst-Building/161413620581088 for more photos. 

We offered a bottle of wine we had with us.

 

Jerry:  Would you like some homemade blueberry wine instead? 

Jim:  Uh……yeah, sure. 

Jerry:  I hate blueberries and I think it sucks.  Would you like that on ice?

So I took my blueberry wine, Debi took her beer, and Jerry took his gin to the rooftop, where we saw hundreds of plants and listened to dozens of stories. 

Downstairs to his bar.  I complimented his bar selections, and he offered Debi a shot of the whipped cream – which turned out to be chocolate alcoholic whipped cream.  And that led to one of my favorite photographs of Debi ever.  

He pulled out the vinyl – Van Morrison.  There was something intoxicating about hearing the Man on warm vinyl in this wild place.  Or maybe it was the second glass of blueberry wine, which was neither sweet (as I expected), nor tart – but right there on the edge where it might not have been wrong to call it either.

Jerry:   Are you into the Wizard of Oz?

Me:      Yes! (I didn’t even bother to tell him that at age 19 I had attended a Halloween showing of the film at the U. of Illinois Auditorium dressed as the Tin Woodsman, while my roommates rounded out the cast in their costumes). 

Jerry:  I wrote a book about it – want to see? 

And there it was.  The book had been funded by Morton Salt - the umbrella girl logo was on the title page.  We had just learned earlier in the day of the importance of salt mining to this area, but that’s a whole other Boat’s Notes. 

Anyway, the book was about Walter Burridge - the guy who designed the sets for the theatrical Wizard of Oz – and how he brought those sets to Manistee, and some other Manistee connection, and then how Jerry is connected to that connection, but I was really enjoying the Van Morrison and missed some of that.  But who cares – I had entered Oz 2013.  

Jerry (and hopefully Jim) will be joining us on the boat tomorrow evening.  Sometime before that Marci and her mom will be arriving.  This just sounds like trouble.  Can’t wait. 

8/10

p.s. – Marci and her mom got the full Jim and Jerry experience.  The guys took our invitation to join us on the boat.  We followed them home, back to their spectacular home for a rooftop garden sunset, Jerry serenading the street with "Everything's Coming Up Roses", music and whipped cream, etc……..  Saw Jim this morning, selling those blueberries at the local Farmer's Market but did not have our camera.

Thank you, Jim and Jerry - for the good times in Manistee!!
Jim, Debi, Marci and Kate